the cocoon

The envelope of raw silk spun by the silkworm and in which it encloses itself when in the pupa state. About 10 per cent of the totalled weight can be reeled off in a single filament, the length averaging about 300 yards. The outer layers of the cocoons are used for floss or spun silk.

Cocoons which have one end rising in a point. When reeling, the thread breaks at the point where the thread is weak, and so cannot be wound further (see Raw Silk)

1. noun 2. transitive verb [kə'ku:n] [kə'kuːn] Kokon m; (fig, of scarves, blankets etc) Hülle f einhüllen; ship etc abdecken 1. noun 2. transitive verb

Ge|spịnst [gə'ʃpɪnst]

Classified as a "major" defect by the Silk Association of America. Casts are the beginning of new cocoon filaments. Appearance - Abruptly increased diameter in a raw-silk thread. This defect may vary in length. Causes - A single cocoon filament may not have been properly " cast " on to the raw-silk thread in the reeling operation; or a " layer " of filaments may have loosened itself from the cocoon and have come off the cocoon simultaneously by passing through the rollers porcelain gauge-eyelets in a bulk, which either suddenly or gradually decreases to the required number of single cocoon filaments - that is, to the normal size of the raw-silk thread.

Several commercial varieties of wild silks are obtained from the silkworms as under. These worms do not feed on mulberry leaves, and because of this fact are called wild silks: - Antherea Yama-Mai - A native of Japan which feeds on oak leaves. The caterpillar is green-coloured - its cocoon is large and bright green. The fibre is not so readily dyed and bleached as Bombax mori. Antherea Pernyi - A native of China, feeding on oak leaves. The cocoon is large and of a yellow to brown colour. Antherea Assama - A native of India, giving a large cocoon. Antherea Mylitta - A native of India (see Antherea Silk)

kóṡa

in class. literature koṡa, orﾠ kosha;
fr. kuṡ orﾠ kush?, related to kukshí andﾠ koshṭha?), a cask, vessel for holding liquids, (metaphorically) cloud RV. AV. Suṡr. ;
a pail, bucket RV. ;
a drinking-vessel, cup L. ;
a box, cupboard, drawer, trunk RV. VI, 47, 23 AV. XIX, 72, 1 ṠBr. ;
the interior orﾠ inner part of a carriage RV. ;
(ifc.) MBh. VIII, 1733 ;
a sheath, scabbard, etc. MBh. R. VarBṛS. ;
a case, covering, cover AV. ChUp. MuṇḍUp. TUp. PārGṛ. BhP. ;
store-room, store, provisions Mn. MBh. etc.;
a treasury, apartment where money orﾠ plate is kept, treasure, accumulated wealth (gold orﾠ silver, wrought orﾠ unwrought, as plate, jewellery, etc.) ib. ;
(in surg.) a kind of bandage Suṡr. ;
a dictionary, lexicon orﾠ vocabulary;
a poetical collection, collection of sentences etc. Kāvyâd. I, 13 Sāh. ;
a bud, flower-cup, seed-vessel (cf. bīja-) R. Ragh. BhP. Dhūrtas. ;
the sheath orﾠ integument of a plant, pod, nut-shell MārkP. ;
a nutmeg L. ;
the inner part of the fruit of Artocarpus integrifolia andﾠ of similar fruits L. ;
the cocoon of a silk-worm Yājñ. III, 147 Vedântas. ;
the membrane covering an egg (in the womb) Suṡr. VarBṛ. MārkP. ;
the vulva L. ;
a testicle orﾠ the scrotum Suṡr. VarBṛS. ;
the penis W. ;
an egg L. ;
(in Vedânta phil.) a term for the three sheaths orﾠ succession of cases which make up the various frames of the body enveloping the soul
(these are,
1. the ānanda-mayak- orﾠ « sheath of pleasure», forming the kāraṇa-ṡarīra orﾠ « causal frame» ;
2. the vijñāna-maya orﾠ buddhi-m- orﾠ mano-m- orﾠ prâ̱ṇa-m-k-, « the sheath of intellect orﾠ will orﾠ life», forming the sūkshma-ṡarīra orﾠ « subtile frame» ;
3. the anna-m-k-, « the sheath of nourishment», forming the sthūla-ṡarīra orﾠ « gross frame») Vedântas. ;
(ifc.) a ball orﾠ globe (e.g.. sūtra-, a ball of thread L. ;
netra-, the eye-ball R. III, 79, 28);
the water used at an ordeal orﾠ judicial trial (the defendant drinks thrice of it after some idol has been washed in it) Yājñ. II, 95 ;
an oath Rājat. V, 325 ;
a cup used in the ratification of a treaty of peace (- ṡaṉ-pā, to drink from that cup)
Rājat. VII, 8; 75; 460 and 493; VIII, 283 ;
N. of a conjunction of planets VarBṛS. ;
of the 2nd astrological mansion, Var. Yogay. ;
(with Buddh.) of a collection of Gāthā verses Kāraṇḍ. Hcar. ;
(ā) f. N. of a river MBh. VI, 9, 34 ;
of a courtesan HPariṡ. VIII, 8 ;
(ī) f. « a bud» seeﾠ arka-;
a seedvessel L. ;
the beard of corn L. ;
a shoe, sandal L. ;
a kind of perfume Gal.;
an iron ploughshare ib. ;
<cf. kókkos.>
- कोशकार
- कोशकारक
- कोशकालिन्
- कोशकाली
- कोशकृत्
- कोशगृह
- कोशग्रहण
- कोशचञ्चु
- कोशज
- कोशजात
- कोशदास
- कोशधान्य
- कोशधावन
- कोशनायक
- कोशपाल
- कोशपीथिन्
- कोशपेटक
- कोशफल
- कोशभूता
- कोशरक्षिन्
- कोशवत्
- कोशवारि
- कोशवासिन्
- कोशवाहन
- कोशवृद्धि
- कोशवेश्मन्
- कोशशायिका
- कोशशुद्धि
- कोशस्कृत्
- कोशस्थ
- कोशहीन
- कोशांश
- कोशागार
- कोशाङ्ग
- कोशाण्ड
- कोशाधिपति
- कोशाधीश
- कोशाध्यक्ष
- कोशापहरण
- कोशापहर्तृ
- कोशाम्र
- कोशीधान्य
- कोशेक्षण
- कोशेश

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

I [spɪn] II 1. [spɪn] 2. [spin] 1. present participle - spinning; verb 2. noun - spin-drier
- spin out spin /spɪn/ ♦ (to) spin /spɪn/ I [spɪn] II 1. [spɪn] 2.

The real pongee is woven in Northern China on hand looms from the silk of wild cocoons. Almost always of pale or dark ecru, but sometimes dyed in colours to meet a fashion. The warp is always finer than the weft and more even, the weft having nubs characteristic of wild silk yarn which forms a crossrib effect with the many nubs scattered in the fabric. The name means " own loom " in Chinese, signifying that the piece was woven on a house's own loom in guarantee of which certain Chinese characters are stamped on the cloth. Another explanation of the name is that it derives from pang-chih (Cantonese, " pung-che ") which is the name of the wheel on which the silk is reeled from the cocoon. A very fine cloth is also made by the natives of many parts of India from natural coloured silk warp and weft, plain weave, very fine sett, such as 150 ends and 150 picks per inch. The Lancashire pongee is made from the best of cotton and mercerised, dyed and schreinered. A variety is 35-in., 120 yards, 98 ends and 104 picks per inch, 80's warp, 120's weft. British silk pongees are "woven from yarn in its gummed state and degummed after weaving. When dyed and finished the handle and brilliance of the cloth are excellent. A typical cloth is made 80 ends and 80 picks per inch, 26 denier singles warp, 90 denier singles weft. Pongees are very fine fabrics, but many muslins are called pongees and the quality varies according to the market, such as 98 ends and 104 picks per inch, 80's warp, 120's weft, all Egyptian, home trade; 74 ends and 74 picks per inch, 60's warp, 60's weft, all Egyptian, South America; 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 34's warp, 32's weft, all American, Java and China.

A term often applied to the silk produced by the Antherea mylitta, a wild silkworm of India, which gives the so-called tussah silk. The worms feed on the leaves of the castor-oil plant, and give very large cocoons. The fibre is much longer than from the cocoon of the Pombyx mori, varying from 600 to 2,000 yards in length. The colour of tussah silk varies from a grey to a deep brown. Other wild silks are also frequently given this name (see Antherea)